P0335 Code: Fix Your Crankshaft Position Sensor Today

When P0335 shows up on your scanner, your car's telling you it can't properly detect the crankshaft position. This code stands for "Crankshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Malfunction" - basically, your engine's computer isn't getting the signal it needs from the sensor that tracks your crankshaft's rotation and position.

Your crankshaft position sensor (we'll call it CKP sensor) is like your engine's GPS. It tells the computer exactly where the crankshaft is in its rotation at any moment. This info is critical - without it, your engine doesn't know when to fire the spark plugs or inject fuel. Think of trying to play a song without knowing the beat - that's your engine without a working CKP sensor. The computer needs this timing info hundreds of times per second to keep everything running smoothly.

The "A Circuit" part means we're dealing with the primary sensor circuit on engines that have multiple crankshaft sensors. Most vehicles just have one, but some V6 and V8 engines use two for more precise timing control. When this circuit fails, your engine loses its most fundamental reference point. It's not just about rough running - sometimes your engine won't start at all because it literally doesn't know where to begin the combustion cycle.

The symptoms of P0335 range from annoying to "call a tow truck." The most dramatic symptom is a complete no-start condition. You turn the key, the engine cranks and cranks, but never fires up. That's because without the CKP signal, your computer won't trigger the fuel injectors or ignition system. It's protecting your engine from potential damage by not guessing when to fire.

If you're lucky, the sensor is failing intermittently, and you'll experience stalling instead. You're driving along fine, then suddenly the engine dies - usually at the worst possible moment like turning across traffic or merging onto the highway. The engine might restart after a few tries, or you might need to wait for things to cool down. This intermittent failure pattern is actually pretty common with CKP sensors.

Extended cranking time is another telltale sign. Your engine might eventually start, but it takes way longer than normal. Instead of firing up in a second or two, you're holding that key for 5-10 seconds. You might also notice rough idling that feels different from a typical misfire. The engine seems confused about its timing, causing an uneven, searching idle that can't quite find its rhythm. Some drivers report their engine suddenly racing to 3000 RPM then dropping back down, all on its own.

Performance issues come with the territory too. Your car might feel like it has no power, especially under acceleration. The transmission might refuse to shift properly because it relies on engine speed data from the CKP sensor. You'll definitely see that check engine light, and possibly other warning lights like the traction control or stability management systems that also need engine speed data.

Understanding why P0335 happens helps you fix it right and prevent future problems. The CKP sensor itself is often the culprit. These sensors live in a harsh environment - right next to the spinning crankshaft, dealing with extreme heat, vibration, and oil contamination. Most CKP sensors are either magnetic or Hall effect types. Over time, heat cycles cause internal components to break down. The magnetic pickup can lose strength, or the Hall effect chip can fail.

Heat is the big killer here. CKP sensors typically mount near the engine block or transmission bell housing where temperatures regularly exceed 200°F. The plastic housing can crack, letting in moisture that corrodes the internal electronics. The sensor's position also means it catches all the heat radiating from your exhaust system. After 80,000-150,000 miles of heat cycling, even quality sensors start failing.

Wiring problems cause plenty of P0335 codes too. The sensor wiring runs through some tight spaces where it can rub against metal edges or hot components. Engine vibration gradually wears through wire insulation. Oil leaks are particularly bad - engine oil breaks down wire insulation over time. We've seen cam cover gasket leaks drip oil directly onto CKP sensor wiring, causing intermittent failures that drive owners crazy trying to diagnose.

Physical damage happens more than you'd think. The sensor's proximity to the crankshaft means any debris in the bell housing can hit it. Improper installation where someone over-tightened the mounting bolt can crack the sensor housing. Road debris kicked up from below can impact the sensor. Sometimes the reluctor wheel (the toothed wheel the sensor reads) gets damaged or builds up metal shavings that interfere with the signal.

Before you buy parts, let's confirm what's actually wrong. Start with the basics - locate your CKP sensor. It's usually on the engine block near the crankshaft pulley, or on the transmission bell housing. Check for obvious damage like cracks, oil contamination, or loose mounting bolts.

Visual inspection can reveal a lot. Look at the sensor connector - is it fully clicked in place? Check for bent pins or corrosion inside the connector. Follow the wiring harness looking for cuts, burns, or rubbed-through spots. Pay special attention where wires pass near hot exhaust components or sharp metal edges. Sometimes you'll find the problem is just a disconnected or corroded connector.

Now grab your multimeter for resistance testing. Disconnect the sensor and measure resistance between its terminals. Most CKP sensors should read between 200-2000 ohms, but check your vehicle's specs. Infinite resistance means an open circuit inside the sensor. Very low resistance indicates an internal short. While you're at it, check for continuity between each terminal and the sensor body - there shouldn't be any, as this would indicate a short to ground.

For a more thorough test, check the sensor's output while cranking. Set your multimeter to AC voltage and connect to the sensor terminals. Have someone crank the engine while you watch the meter. You should see 0.5 to 5 volts AC depending on your sensor type. No voltage or very low voltage confirms a bad sensor. If you have access to an oscilloscope, you can actually see the waveform pattern - it should be consistent and match the number of teeth on your reluctor wheel.

Ready to replace that CKP sensor? Let's do this right. First, buy a quality replacement sensor. A-Premium sensors match OEM specifications and come with proper connectors and mounting hardware. While you're ordering, grab some dielectric grease and maybe a new pigtail connector if yours looks corroded.

Start by disconnecting your battery negative terminal and letting the engine cool completely. CKP sensors can be in tight spots near hot exhaust components. Locate your sensor - you might need to remove the wheel and inner fender liner for access on some vehicles, or work from underneath on others. Take photos before disconnecting anything, showing the sensor orientation and wire routing.

Remove the electrical connector first. These usually have a tab or slider lock that needs to be pressed while pulling. Don't force it - if it won't come apart easily, you're probably not pressing the release correctly. Once disconnected, remove the mounting bolt. Most sensors use a single 8mm or 10mm bolt. The sensor might be stuck in place with oil and grime - gently twist while pulling to free it. Avoid prying against the sensor body as they crack easily.

Clean the mounting surface thoroughly before installing the new sensor. Any metallic debris here can affect the sensor signal. Apply a small amount of engine oil to the new sensor's O-ring if it has one. This prevents damage during installation and ensures a good seal. Insert the sensor straight in - don't force or twist it if it doesn't slide in easily. Something might be blocking it, or you might have the wrong part.

Torque the mounting bolt to specification - usually just 5-9 ft-lbs. Over-tightening cracks sensors and is a common cause of premature failure. Apply dielectric grease inside the connector before plugging it in. This prevents corrosion and makes future removal easier. Route the wiring exactly as before, using all the original clips and holders. Secure any loose sections with zip ties, keeping wires away from hot or moving parts.

Not all crankshaft position sensors are created equal. Cheap sensors might work initially but fail within months. The P0335 code comes back, and you're doing the job again. That's why we test every A-Premium CKP sensor to meet or exceed OEM standards.

Our sensors use high-quality Hall effect chips or magnetic pickups depending on your application. The internal electronics are potted in epoxy to prevent vibration damage and moisture intrusion. We use high-temperature plastics that won't crack or melt in your engine bay. The wire harnesses feature proper heat shielding and oil-resistant insulation. Each sensor gets tested at temperature extremes from -40°F to 250°F to ensure it'll work in any climate.

The connector quality matters too. Cheap sensors often come with flimsy connectors that don't seal properly or break during installation. Our connectors feature proper weather sealing, strong locking tabs, and corrosion-resistant terminals. They're designed to last the life of your vehicle, not just get you through the warranty period. Plus, exploring our complete OBD codes guide can help you understand related issues that might pop up.

Once you've fixed P0335, let's keep it from happening again. Regular maintenance plays a big role. Fix oil leaks promptly - that valve cover gasket leak might seem minor, but oil dripping on sensor wiring causes expensive problems. Keep your engine bay reasonably clean. Built-up grime holds moisture against electrical connections, accelerating corrosion.

During oil changes, take a quick look at your CKP sensor and wiring. Look for developing cracks, loose connections, or wiring that's moved out of position. If you see the wire harness touching exhaust components, reposition it before the heat damage occurs. A minute of prevention saves hours of diagnosis later.

Consider replacing the sensor preventively at 100,000-150,000 miles if you're already doing major engine work. If you're pulling the transmission or doing a clutch job, the sensor is right there and easy to access. Spending $30-50 on a new sensor during scheduled maintenance beats getting stranded when it fails unexpectedly.

When working near the sensor, be careful. Don't use it as a pry point or let tools drop on it. If you're pressure washing your engine, avoid blasting water directly at electrical connectors. Water forced past the seals causes corrosion that leads to intermittent failures months later.

Let's break down the real costs of fixing P0335. At a dealership, you're looking at 200−400fordiagnosisandreplacement.They′llcharge1−2hoursoflaborat200-400 for diagnosis and replacement. They'll charge 1-2 hours of labor at 200−400fordiagnosisandreplacement.They′llcharge1−2hoursoflaborat100-150 per hour, plus $80-150fortheOEMsensor.Independentshopstypicallycharge$150-300 total. Some sensors are easy 30-minute jobs, others require removing wheels or working from underneath, adding labor time.

Doing it yourself with an A-Premium sensor costs $25-60dependingonyourvehicle.Add$10 for supplies like dielectric grease if you don't have them. Even if you need to buy basic tools like a socket set and multimeter, you're still under 100total.That′sasavingsof100 total. That's a savings of 100total.That′sasavingsof100-300 that stays in your pocket.

The time investment varies by vehicle. Easy-access sensors take 30-45 minutes for first-timers. Buried sensors might take 2 hours including removing and reinstalling access panels. But compare that to dropping your car at a shop, arranging rides, and picking it up later. DIY is often faster overall, plus you learn about your car and gain confidence for future repairs.

Don't forget the knowledge value. Once you've successfully diagnosed and replaced a CKP sensor, you can tackle similar sensor replacements. That MAF sensor code? Same diagnostic process. Cam position sensor? Nearly identical job. The skills compound, saving you thousands over your car ownership.

While P0335 is often straightforward, sometimes you need a pro. If you've replaced the sensor but the code returns immediately, you might have reluctor wheel damage or PCM issues. These require specialized tools and knowledge to diagnose properly.

If you're seeing multiple timing-related codes like P0335, P0340 (cam sensor), and P0016 (correlation), you might have timing chain problems. This is major engine work requiring expertise and special tools. Water damage to the PCM from flooding or windshield leaks can cause multiple sensor codes including P0335. PCM replacement and programming needs dealer-level equipment.

Some vehicles have truly terrible sensor access. If getting to your CKP sensor requires dropping the transmission or major disassembly, paying for professional installation might make sense. There's no shame in recognizing when a job exceeds your tools, skills, or available time.

Can I drive with P0335 or will it damage my engine?

If your engine starts and runs with P0335, avoid driving except to get home or to a repair shop. The irregular timing can cause engine damage, catalytic converter failure, or leave you stranded. If the engine won't start due to P0335, you'll need towing anyway.

Why does my P0335 code come and go randomly?

Intermittent P0335 usually means a failing sensor that works when cool but fails when hot, damaged wiring that makes contact sometimes, or a loose/corroded connection. These are actually harder to diagnose than complete failures but follow the same repair steps.

Will disconnecting the battery clear P0335?

Disconnecting the battery clears the code temporarily, but it'll come back within a few drive cycles if you haven't fixed the underlying problem. You need to repair the faulty sensor or wiring, then clear the code with a scanner or battery disconnect.

Can a bad battery cause P0335?

A weak battery doesn't directly cause P0335, but low voltage during cranking can prevent the sensor signal from being read properly. If you're getting P0335 only during cold starts with slow cranking, check your battery and starter first.

Should I replace both crank and cam sensors together?

If one sensor has failed due to age and heat, the other might not be far behind. Replacing both during the same repair can save labor costs if paying a shop, and prevents a second breakdown. However, if you're DIYing and money's tight, just replace the failed sensor.

At A-Premium, we're committed to making repairs like P0335 straightforward and affordable. Our quality sensors, detailed guides, and extensive parts selection help you fix problems right the first time. Whether you're dealing with sensor issues or exploring other OBD trouble codes, we've got the parts and knowledge you need to keep your car running perfectly.